Alex's lodger asked me about Italian Christmas food, and I was very stumped. The thing is, we don't really have a traditional Christmas food. Down South they do capitone (which is a kind of eel I think) for Christmas Eve, when you are supposed to abstain (Italian translation: you do not eat meat). I asked my mom and she said that they used to eat goose at Christmas around here (because you would fatten it up throughout the year). Nowadays, it's mostly cappone, that is, a rooster that has been castrated and fattened (not known either in the UK or US, as far as I know).
But, yes, nothing like the Turkey. In fact, cooking a whole turkey was unheard of in Italy until we heard the Americans were doing it and started copying it for Thanksgiving (no, Italians don't celebrate Thanksgiving as such, but they like doing Thanksgiving because it sounds like fun). A whole pig, yes. A whole chicken, duck, guinea fowl, goose, pheasant, and various other things, yes. Turkey, not so much. Turkey is usually filleted.
As a matter of fact, birds are more often boiled than roasted, because that way you get some good stock which is then used everywhere else in the meal. As a result, mixed boiled meat is often another Christmas favourite - eaten with khren, or hren, or as you call it here, horseradish - although it is more properly an Easter meal (in my part of the world, which includes my bit of Italy, and Slovenia).
Of course we have Christmas sweets, which are bought (from factories, and I guess earlier on from bakers) because they are very very VERY hard to do at home. You have NO IDEA what cooking a panettone involves, and pandoro is even worse.
Around Bologna, of course, they do tortellini for Christmas: proper handmade tortellini (not difficult to do if you have the time and inclination, and I think at some point I will try). But then they do tortellini at the drop of a hat there anyway.
What I can tell you is what my family traditionally cooks at Christmas. This was more a question of finding recipes that we really liked and a tradition forming than anything else.
The ricotta bricks soup is an absolute essential. As far as I know it's the only thing from
Artusi that we actually cook - Artusi is a great book, and historically significant, but it was compiled for another age. (That's what it's called in the Artusi - Minestra di Mattoncini di Ricotta). Every respectable Italian household has a copy. Or should.
Anyway: Minestra di mattoncini di ricotta
200 gr ricotta
30 gr grated parmigiano (good - not the "parmesan" knockoff - this is what gives the thing flavour, and it's a very subtle one, so go for the good stuff.)
2 eggs
Salt, as needed (eh.)
Nutmeg and lemon rind (we usually use a whole lemon)
Artusi reccomends sifting the ricotta, but with a nice blender it's not actually called for. Mix everything apart from the eggs, then add the eggs one at a time. Pour into a cake mold (a sandwich pan, for example), lining with baking paper or foil. Then you should cook it in bain marie (it says here that it's called double boiler in America). I don't, because I can't handle bain marie and never have, so I use the microwave. I have no clue how long for, but the idea is that it has to become solid but a bit spongy.
You then cut it into little cubes (or diamonds, which is nicer), put it into a serving bowl and add some Really good stock. In my house, we use the stock derived from cooking the rooster (which is boiled, not roasted).
Cappone on a bed of lambs' lettuce
The other great favourite is the rooster itself. Once used for the stock it loses a lot of its flavour, so it is left to cool and sliced into very thin slices, then put on a bed of lamb's lettuce or corn salad. Then comes the good part: you take the juice of a pomegrenade (or two), mix it with oil, and drizzle it all over the lettuce and rooster. (I suppose you can prepare leftover turkey this way, too). You then generously sprinkle pomegranate seeds on it.
Pomegranate is a wonderful ingredient, and would deserve to be used more, come to think about it.
What I actually did.
Well, since I have been feeling cookery lately, I actually prepared one Easter and one summer dishes for Alex's party.
Pastiera
The Easter dish is Pastiera, a typically Neapolitan cake that has a very springy feel, in the sense that it is made with symbolically important Spring ingredients - wheat, eggs, ricotta. Actually, Wikipedia says:
It was used during the pagan celebrations of the return of the Spring time. During these celebrations Ceres’ priestess brought an egg, symbol of new life in procession. Because of the wheat or the einkorn, mixed with the soft ricotta cheese, it could come from the einkorn bread called "confarreatio", an essential ingredient in the ceremony of the type of ancient Roman weddings named after it "confarreatio". Another hypothesis we may consider is that it comes from ritual bread used, which spread during the period of Constantine the Great. They were made of honey and milk the people offered the catechumen during Easter Eve at the end of the ceremony of baptism.
It is one of those things, like Carnival fritters, or Christmas puddings, that you do not actually do at any time of the year. But I can, and therefore I do.
You need cooked wheat for it, and there are two ways of doing it. The traditional way involves leaving the grain in water for three days, changing the water every evening, and then cooking it for a long period of time. I have never used this method.
The other way is going into an Italian shop and buy a can. This is what I actually do. :-) It is sold as cooked grain (grano cotto) for pastiera and should be easy to find around Easter. I stock up, because it lasts forever.
The cans come with a handy recipe at the back, which involves equal weight of ricotta and sugar (700 gr sugar and 700 gr sugar for this particular can), 7 whole eggs plus 3 yolks, vanilla flavouring, orange blossom flavouring (this is VERY important!) and a quantity of candied citron (succade) that varies from can to can. The usual 150gr is WAY too much. I used about 25gr last time and it was very satisfactory. You also need 300g of milk to slowly heat the grain in so that it turns into a creamy stuff.
Basically, you mix all of the above together, adding the wamish milk and grain slowly, and then prepare the shortcrust pastry with 500 gr of flour, 200gr of sugar, 200gr of butter or lard (I have never used lard, and if you do,it's of course no longer vegetarian), and three whole eggs. Yes, we use eggs in shortcrust in Italy - I didn't know you could do it without. Maybe we just call it some other thing.
You roll out the shortcrust, line two spring cake molds with it, (keep some pastry to a side) leaving about two cm at the top. You then pour the mixture in, then cut strips from the leftover shortcrust and lay it over the mixture forming a griddle. Fold back the overhand, put everything in a 200° oven, wait for the top to become nice and golden, then switch off the oven and let it cool overnight.
Pastiera must be prepared a couple of days at least in advance, and can be easily frozen in a home freezer.
This quantity makes enough filling for two cakes, which is a good thing because you can usually find somebody to give a pastiera to. I've never had any problem in that.
The summer dish is Caponata, which was not a hit with Alex's party, I think mostly because they were getting very close to maximum capacity by the time we remembered we had it and served it. It can be served as a side dish, as a starter, or even on its own. I learned it from my Sicilian ex-(almost)-mother-in-law, because it is very much a Sicilian dish. It's long to do but I love it very much.
Caponata
Caponata is basically an elaborate way to enjoy aubergines, ie eggplants, one of my favourite foodstuff. There is another dish called caponata whose main ingredient are peppers, but that is a Genoese aberration we shall leave for another time.
This is supposed to feed four people, more if you serve it as appetizer or side:
650 g aubergines (about four)
40 g olives (I used green, but I think I'll go for black next time)
one tablespoon capers (would be better if they were in salt, but in brine will do)
one (good) tablespoon pine nuts
200 g "perini" tomatoes (I used canned San Marzano: since you are supposed to peel them and take out the seeds, I say canned is fine).
on tbs sugar
1/4 of a glass of good red wine vinegar (I didn't use balsamic, but I think you can)
one onion
4 white tender celery sticks
oil for frying
Some people put sultanas in; I am not too sure about that, and don't remember my mother in law doing it.
Anyway - you cut the aubergines into little cubes. Which takes bloody forever. Then you put them in salt water and let them purge (I help the process by putting a small dish on top of them and weighing it down with a meat tenderizer). I let them there for several hours, although the recipe calls for one hour at least.
When they are done purging, rinse them, and (and this is the painful phase) dry them.
Once you've done this, you get to the other painful phase, which is frying them. Yes, frying them, as in, fill a pan with oil, chuck them in so that they are fully submerge, watch them bubble cheerfully until they are nice and golden. Fish out, put on miles and miles of kitchen paper so that the excess oil drains off.
Do the same with the celery sticks - cut, fry, put on paper to absorb excess oil.
Then pour most of the oil away, and fry the diced onion in what's left, adding the tomatoes, the capers, the pine nuts. Cook until the onion is nice and done, soft and transparent, then add the sugar, the vinegar, the pine nuts, the capers and the aubergines and celery. Adjust salt and pepper, stir for 15 minutes or so, then pour somewhere and put in the freezer.
Caponata should rest in the freezer for at least 24 hours, although it is best served at room temperature. As somebody said, "caponata is made by my and the fridge."
So - to answer Sarah's question, what is hearty homely food? This is. Simple home food in Italy requires several hours of preparation. The problem is that once you tried it, you want to do it again and you end up spending a lot of time in the kitchen...